December 22, 2011 13:12
| Food and Drink
Britain’s obsession with curry started sometime during the 1950s, with an increase in migration from south Asia, and it shows no sign of stopping. So at first glance, there’s nothing particularly astonishing about a new Indian restaurant in Notting Hill.
isn’t serving up chicken tikka masalas and onion bhajis. It opened last month and the minute you step in from Notting Hill Gate
, the white furniture and chandeliers suggest this might be more than your average curry house.
The menu is incredibly extensive, with dishes from various cookery schools. The staff encourage you to share a couple of dishes from each style, some of which are recognisably ‘curries’ and some which are from the grill.
We started with some beautiful grilled lamb chops and butternut squash fritters, then duck breast from the clay over and black daal. It was all spiced perfectly – not hot but wonderfully flavoursome.
After that had a more typical chicken curry, rice, green vegetables and some amazing crispy okra. The curry was creamy and spicey without being oily, perfectly complimented by broccoli, baby asparagus and mange tout in the vegetable dish. The okra is definitely worth a try – it was incredibly moreish in its saltiness.
We also ordered a tray of varied naan breads and although it was lovely – beautifully light and crispy – we couldn’t really tell the garlic from the peshwari. Frankly though, we’re splitting hairs.
The individual dishes are eyewateringly expensive for what they are – the two lamb chops, even if they were delicious, came in at around £16, and the butternut squash fritters weren’t much cheaper. Saying that, the food was outstanding and the service was impeccable, so it’s worth the splurge.
Although the dark chocolate pudding for dessert looked amazing, it seemed too heavy after all we’d eaten so we opted for a ginger and black pepper crème brûlée, which was the perfect antidote to the spice of the previous courses. Some mango ice cream, served in a chocolate box was lovely, even if it was extremely frozen. A mango lassie on the side was also amazing – surely as good as any you’d get in Mumbai.
Three course dinner for two with wine is around £160.
, 157-159 Notting Hill Gate, London W11 3LF